Risk and reward for dancing with the ocean.
Let me take you back to when surfing was first being pioneered and the single fin log was the only board one had to get out in the water. (When Jack Oniell invented the leash it changed the culture and history of surfing. Now when someone fell off their board the leash could save it from going into the rocks. I was introduced to surfing with shortboards and leashes and it is quite neat.) The idea behind leashless surfing is to not even have to worry about your board going into the rocks. To be connected enough with the ocean to cruise into set waves being in the right spot at the right time and right angle. When one begins surfing leashless it forces you to always have maximum focus in the water. It is fulfilling to take sets from out the back to the beach on any board without a leash. Big wave leashless longboarding video soon to come…
el surf hub 